Showing posts with label Mississippi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mississippi. Show all posts

Thursday, December 28, 2023

The Blue Front Cafe | Bentonia, Mississippi


The Blue Front Cafe in Bentonia, Mississippi, is a shotgun-style cinder block building featuring an exposed concrete floor. It also happens to be the oldest operating juke joint in the world. The Holmes family opened the Blue Front in 1948. Jimmy "Duck" Holmes, known as the last of the Bentonia bluesmen, took it over from his parents in 1970.

Jimmy "Duck" Holmes (R) chats with Alan Gross of the Blues Doctors (L)

Blues legends such as Skip James, Jack Owens, Son Thomas and L.C. Ulmer all played here during their time.

A photo of Bentonia bluesman Jack Owens hangs by the back door.

I stopped in the Blue Front during the 2015 Bentonia Blues Festival and captured some shots of the regulars.







All photos © 2015 Steve W. Likens

To get to Bentonia from Memphis via the blues trail, take Hwy 61 south to the "Crossroads" in Clarksdale. Then, follow Hwy 49 south to the Skip James blues trail marker at the corner of Hwy 49 and Wilson Street/Hwy 433. Turn left. After a couple of miles, the road makes a sharp dogleg to the right. Bentonia (pop. 411) is just a few hundred yards further up the road on the left. The Blue Front Cafe is downtown across the railroad tracks.


As an added bonus for reading to the end, here's a black and white of the woman at the register published in the December 2017 edition of Clash magazine in the U.K. 


Thanks for stopping by.

- Steve

Saturday, July 10, 2021

Juke Joint Festival | Hey, Hey, The Jab Is Okay!

"I'm goin down south. I'm goin down south. I'm goin down south.

I'm goin down south. Where the chilly wind don't blow."

(R.L. Burnside)

 "Hey, hey, the blues is alright. It's alright. Alright. Every day and night."

(Little Milton)

Mrs. L. and I each got the second COVID jab, as folks across the pond call it, in early April. By mid-month we were fully cooked and anxious, despite Mr. Baggins's words of caution, to seek adventure beyond the safety and comfort of our own front porch. First up, you ask? The Juke Joint Festival in Clarksdale, Mississippi, of course!

Each April (except during the lost year of 2020) we drive south into the heart of the Delta for three days of blues and joyful reunions with friends from afar - both domestic and imported. In the daylight, the action takes place outside. The sidewalk of every downtown block hosts live music by the renown as well as the local and the obscure. Arts and craft vendors fill the streets hawking everything from cigar box guitars to R.P.'s custom made bird houses. (We have collected four over the years. You can see one of them below.) There's even a race track for monkeys riding dogs. After dark, the scenes shift inside. Every juke joint in town moans and howls until the wee hours and beyond. It's in these sordid places filled with the Devil's music that Mrs. L. and I are reminded that 6 a.m. hasn't always immediately followed 9 p.m. We know the answer to "why did we do that?," but it's "how were we even awake at that hour?" that continues to baffle us. I think it might be because we've had a whole year to rest up. A famous son of the Mississippi gulf coast once declared there's a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning. On Juke Joint weekend, I'm not convinced there's a line at all. Needless to say, this is our happy place.


Continued travel restrictions in Europe and South America limited our reunions to the domestic variety. We longed for the company of our friends from abroad, but their absence makes our hearts grow fonder. Still, it was healing, so to speak, to reconnect in-person with so many of the cast of out-of-town characters who fill and enrich our life. These are but two:

When seeing friends for the first time during the festival, it's important to follow the time-honored festival greeting ritual. This year, our ritual played out with an added twist:

Mr. and Mrs. L. spot friends down the street or across a parking lot and begin waving frantically. Said friends, in turn, notice Mr. and Mrs. L. waving and begin frantically waving back. Or, vice-a-versa. Everyone then runs towards each other screaming wildly, arms opened wide. Suddenly, about six feet apart, we all screech to an awkward halt and shout in unison, as if on cue, "Wait! Have you been vaccinated? We have." Once mutually confirmed, the long overdue hugs begin.

Mix. Stir. Repeat.

In another twist this year, some of the nighttime venues moved the bands outside. So, rather than jostle the crowd in a space too small to hold the number of angels dancing on the head of a pin, we grooved to tunes from the comfort of camp chairs with plenty of fresh air and elbow room. Both my body and my patience, which are now on the 60 side of 50 (or as Mrs. L. graciously says, "not in their twenties any more"), rejoiced at this arrangement. Photo above: Bill Abel and Deak Harp laying down some truly cosmic and mind bending blues.

For my money, the prize for festival highlight goes to the birthday celebration and performance by 94 year old Cadillac John Nolden (pictured above). Several international streaming services broadcasted it "live from Clarksdale." By the way, Cadillac's show started at one in the afternoon, so he could be home and in bed before nine. If you have the time and are so inclined, you can peruse the full set of photos from the 2021 Juke Joint Festival HERE .

Thanks for stopping by.

- Steve

Monday, September 3, 2012

Looking at the World Through a Windshield

Now I'm looking at the world through a windshield,
Watchin' it a flyin' by me on the right,
I got a sweet little thing I'm wanting to see in Nashville,
And I'm down around Dallas and rollin' on fast tonight.

("Looking at the World Through a Windshield," by Jerry Chestnut & Mike Hoyer)


The southern "skyline" along Highway 4 as seen in our right side-view mirror.


Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Do the Dew

Today the dawn brought an unexpected pleasure to the northwest Mississippi hill country – at no charge to boot.  A heavy dew covered the pasture and the freshly cut grass around our house.  I fed the dogs and then took a barefoot stroll.  The grass was ICE COLD!  It reminded me of wading through the shallows of the White River early in the morning just before the dam opens.  What a welcome relief after months of sweltering heat and humidity.  Even after taking a shower, my soles still felt chilled.  Which leads me to relay my other experience this morning - contemplation of life’s great unexplained mystery.  Only two heads of hair (as far as I know) reside in our house.  Mine and Mrs L's.  So why does the window ledge in our shower display no less than twelve different shampoo and conditioner bottlesBut, I digress.  After hearing of my good fortune, Mrs. L took her own barefoot stroll.  She, too, got a thrill up her leg.  In light of which, I think we should do the dew together tomorrow morning.  You are welcome to join us.  We will be out front about 6:30 a.m.  The first ten people through the gate get a free bottle of shampoo! ~

In related Mother Nature news, we discovered a vine of these interesting gems climbing on the fence along the driveway down by the front gate.


Mrs. L. looked them up on Google.  It says they are Purple Passionflowers (Passiflora incarnata), a herbaceous vine that grows up to 25 feet in length. 

Finally, as a bonus just for reading to the end, here is a gratuitous picture of some trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) that also grows along our driveway fence.



 Et cum spiritu tuo

Thursday, August 16, 2012

I'm Alright. And You?

The juice is not flowing this week.  (Perhaps I should get some from Melky Cabrera)  So, here's one from the archives.  I wrote this piece in 2003.

The earth here gives us life.
Today we return another life to it.
After more than a week of barely eating
and not moving on or from his pillow,
we had Rufus, the oldest of our three dogs, put to sleep.
When asked what happened to him, our vet simply said,
“He got old. He had a long life and he’s just lived it all up.”

My wife started a hole
in the grove of trees between the house and the lake.
When I got home this afternoon,
I picked up the shovel and took my turn.
As I dug, I heard a steady and methodical rustling of leaves on the ground behind me.
I turned several times,
but saw nothing.
Eventually, one the ducks living in our pond
waddled up within two to three feet,
stopped and watched for a while.
I looked up and spoke to him in a normal conversational tone of voice
several times as he approached.
Not once did he hesitate or act skittish.
In fact, he proceeded toward me with a determined sense of purpose,
like it was every duck’s daily duty to walk up and watch you dig a hole.

Some time passed
and when he had assured himself
that I was digging to his satisfaction
or simply lost interest,
he waddled back down to the pond
without a word.

As I continued digging,
Pippin, our six month old Golden Retriever,
so full of life and youthful playfulness,
ran out into the water to pounce upon him
like Tigger greeting Pooh.
There was a solitary bark
followed by a splash and the sound of rapidly flapping wings skimming across the water,
and then silence,
broken only by a few mocking quacks from a safe distance away.
Pippin soon bounded back up the hill toward the house
and shrugged as if to say,
“Stupid duck.  I didn’t want to play with it anyway.”

I finished my digging
and thought again of the life we were offering to this land.
Some are calmed by the steady noise of a bustling city.
Others find serenity in nature’s silence.
Rufus experienced both.
He first wandered up and made himself at home with us in the heart of the city
almost 14 years ago.
We know not from where he came.
He was 5 – 7 years old then.
Thereafter, from house to house and fenced yard to fenced yard,
he followed us to new places in the city, then a smaller town,
and finally here where he enjoyed his last few months.
Out here he had no fences to limit his wandering fancies
and the carriage-less horses stampeding across the pasture was the only traffic he had to avoid.

We knew before we left our last house in town
that Rufus was slowing down and that his time was getting short.
I am comforted to know that his last months were here in the summer and fall
and that he went to his rest before suffering through a harsh winter
his body could not endure.

As soon as he arrived here, new life entered him.
He took right to the place
as if he had always been here and somehow belonged here,
a feeling he shared with each of us.
Rufus loved the pond and the open pastures,
and had all the freedom he could want,
but I sensed that he found the most joy
simply laying in the shade under the front porch
listening to the wind and the birds,
surveying his kingdom
from the ridge,
knowing
that all was well.

So today
we gave him to this earth,
earth that has restored us
and continues to give us life.
Perhaps
I too
have been brought to this place
to live out my final days.
Be they many or few,
I am at peace and pleased with the thought
that of all places
they would be here,
and I know that all is well.


(2003)

Et cum spiritu tuo

Sunday, August 12, 2012

No Animals Were Harmed in the Writing of This Blogpost

The conversations you are about to read are true.  There were no actors and no scripts.
Me:  "What did you do at your friend's last night?"
Granddaughter:  "We took the chickens for rides on the 4-wheeler."
Grandson:  "Who drove?"
~
Grandson:  "Grandpa, will you buy me a goat."
Me:  "You know that your mom and dad are not going to let you keep a goat at your house."
Grandson:  "I know, but we could keep it over here."
~
Me:  "What's that knocking?"
Mrs. L.:  "It sounds like there's a horse in the garage."
Me:  "Oh, *!, I forgot to close the garage door last night."
Families who live in the city do not have these conversations.  We had all three within the span of 72 hours.

In case you are wondering:

The chickens apparently enjoy this;
no, we did not buy the boy a goat; and
we got the horse out of the garage without damaging the car this time.


Et cum spiritu tuo